The end is nigh.

I wake up hungry on the pontoon. Quickly I make a double breakfast. Be well expedition food has been basically all I’ve eaten aside from cheese and crackers with jam. 

I eat, pack and slide the Taran (my darling Friđa, the beast, my trusty steed) off the pontoon ease myself into the cockpit and paddle off. 

This will be the last day. It’s been on my mind. Every stroke has been a pleasure and the trip has fulfilled everything I imagined and more. The Taran 16 has been there like a trusty side kick. I haven’t been able to convey the sheer gratitude I have to this boat and Rockpool for building it. The days I had had bad wind and weather or mentaly struggling with mind shite the boat had been a constant friend, a companion that never changed, no battles with wind cocking or down wind runs (of which there were minimal) it’s been there 100%. Never did it give me a feeling of out of my depth, and if anything all I put it through it felt like it smilled at me and wanted more. This smile flowed through me and I never once thought I wouldn’t be able to complete. It’s a thoroughbred kayak but you don’t need to be amazing to paddle it.

I left the harbour with some wind behind me and paddled on around the headland. The compass turns north, the strange feeling I get in my stomach like butterflies, I’m smiling a deep feeling of happiness fills me. I make a landing and eat

 Life has been revolving around my stomach, paddling, landing and camping for a while now. It’s going to be over soon, time to lock myself into a room with Internet and TV. My way to rehabilitate.

My last meal is a sullen one. I watch the tide go out as I eat. I try and think of all the days, all the things I’ve seen and places I’ve been. The weather was kind and there was a little headwind.

This was a great piece of coast. There were arches and caves. I paddled through some but the swell was a little too much to be able to enjoy them all.

My last turn and the compass showed east. This was going to be a long day. I was only 35 km from the finish. I had already paddled 50km but the end was in sight.  I could almost see the lights of Rejkyavik as I started on the last crossing. There was a small pod of dolphins which excited me. They stayed around and were showing off pretty close to me. That and the knowledge I would be finishing soon made me smile deeply. The sun was setting and red sky with the backdrop of a glacier couldn’t of been better. All this totaly changed the mood and when the wind picked up I couldn’t of been upset of annoyed by it. I chose my line and as the sky started to get dark it dawned on me that the big ships leaving wouldn’t be able to see me. I took out my emergency light and clipped it to my hat. I must of looked funny but I really was too happy to care. I wouldn’t be finishing at any reasonable hour. I didn’t know if anyone was going to be there to greet me but that wasn’t a problem. I’m not that great at excepting praise and what if I started crying? I’m supposed to be a strong man. 😉 

The wind died down the closer I got and I could see the indicator markers and the lighthouse. There was a light flash from a vehicle. “Right” I thought time to paddle hard. That was short lived as it was still pretty far to go so I slowed my pace but still kept paddling hard. 

I will admit I shed a few tears on the last few kilometres. I had better get them out now before I land just in case I turn into a blubbering baby. 

The chop turned into a complete mill pond. The last kilometres were a bit of a blur but I remember feeling so rock solid and chuffed. I had done or would be done in a few moments. I forced a small flash back remembering mostly good things and feelings of happiness. Big crossings, snow capped fjords and whale encounters. It had been the greatest experience I have an may ever have in my life and it was bliss. As I got closer I could see two people walking down. I couldn’t believe anyone would come see me finish but it was so nice. A genuine feeling of friendship and gratitude I can never repay came over me. Eymundur and his wife had come to see me finish and a lady from the club had come to see a “legend” finish. Her words not mine. 

I couldn’t believe it really. I was helped with my stuff and was fed sandwiches. I’m so great full for them. I was taken back to their house and quickly showered and went to bed.

Pontoon pleasure.

I wake up in the Bivi all warm in the sun. All the wetness had dried out and it was nice under the sun. I pull the hood up and over my head and it was nice and dark and after the distance I had done the day before I slept a little longer. 3am was a long day and night paddling with all that wind. I’m feeling slightly flat so I top up with coffee.

I charge up my phone (for possibly the last time) in a grey box in the harbour while I pack up, eat and drink coffee. I’m now eating double rations for breakfast and feel constantly hungry. I’m craving cheese and marmite sandwiches and icecream all day.

My first place I land this day is a small beach. I pulled up the boat and was strafed by Terns. Not really a problem so I cook up the meal and start to eat. I spot a mouse running g down the rocks to the seaweed. My first mouse and the second sort of wild land mammal.

I paddle on. The landscape has changed and it’s a welcome sight. The steep beaches have changed into rocks and cliffs. I can keep in close and stay out of the wind. There are some rocks and natural features that make it more interesting. I can visualise some of the roads I travelled on when I was on the holiday. It’s a welcome break.

The evening turns out another sunset. The deep orange to red has been such a glorious sight. I know these past days have been The beginning of the end and I feel I just want to finish it. It sounds a bit horrible but this is a good way to finish. Rather than an in set of depression after I finish I’ve been not getting that excited or upset about finishing. The job has to finish and im aware of how I will feel.

The day turns into darkness and I follow the red and green lights into the harbour. Another pontoon awaits and a sailing boat I watched sail into the harbour was up against the other pontoon. The wind was creating an eerie noise like a fable ghost noise. I was a little too tired So I pulled out the bivi bag crawled in and slept quickly.

Headwind to a runaround bivi.

Vestmannaeyjar looked so close and I really wanted to go to Elephant rock but I the thought of the island being packed with festival goers was a bit of a turn off and also the wind wasn’t in my favour but I wanted to finish as soon as possible it wasn’t because I had had enough it was the fact I could feel the island getting more urban which wasn’t what the trip was for me. I loved the wilds, the feeling of being away from civilisation. Away from cars, lights, people and noise. Finding a friendship through reliability of boat and equipment, familiarity with repetition, one of the greatest distance experiences.

Today I witnessed a massive 4×4 stuck on a steep bank next to the beach. There were people all stood out the back removing bikes and standing photos with the obligatory Iceland knitted jumper.  I chuckled to myself as I passed them. Wondering what possessed them to drive to where they were and how they would get out. All day the wind had been progressively getting stronger. A nice sunny day but the wind was actualy warm and drying my suit off. I tried to stay as close to the beach to try and get some shelter. This was a little difficult as there was swell but I was determined. 

The place I wanted to land was covered in rocks and I was not really happy with so I carried on. I found a small harbout entrance and landed to have something hot to eat. I was blessed with an amazing sundown as it went behind the mountains. I decided to go across the next bay. I left the shelter of the calm water in the harbour and paddled towards the next lighthouse. The eavning wasn’t going to be the nice windy push I expected and as the wind changed direction the fetch became deck swampers and the cloud had made it hard to see. I supprised a sleeping Gannet and as it started flapping and squalking I got a little freaked. I remembered hearing a story about someone trying to save one from a dog and they lost an eye. Not something I would like.

As I got closer to the Next harbour I had a bit of a sketch with breaking waves on rocks. I pulled into the harbour out of the wind and couldn’t find a slipway anywhere. Eventually I pulled up onto a locked gated pontoon and pulled out the Bivi ate and had a really nice sleep. Pontoons are great. It moves with the tide and it’s my favourite place to sleep if I can. As I pulled out the Bivi nag I realised it was wet inside and out. Noooo. I dried it off as much as possible with my towel. As I got in with the sleeping bag I could feel the water. I knew it would dry out and my down bag would be ok but it was a little worrying. 

Stacks and festivals.

I stayed a day in Vik for a day while I caught up with sleep and reset my body clock to paddle during day time. There were amazing stacks and a large arch to paddle through.

The stacks were sharp and far more pointed than anything I have seen anywhere. Black volcanic rock able to withstand the force of the sea. One looked like the blackbird jet plane. Really impressive. I needed to land as the camera decided to run out at the wrong time. The next point of amazement was the massive archway. This was the first time I had found much interest in the south coast. It didn’t last long but is something that should be visited if you are with a kayak.

The rest of the coast was pretty boring. Black steep sand and some river outlets. The weather was good but the wind was a little bit in the wrong direction but not as bad as the report said. I contemplated paddling to the Vestmannaeyjar Isles but landed at the port on the mainland. There was a festival Going on and there were hundreds of people milling round waiting for the ferry. I charged up some equipment and went back to the boat, put up the tent and went to sleep.

Victory to Vik.

I spent the day sleeping and the sun gave an appearance and I was able to charge the phone with the power monkeys solar charger, I ate more than normal and psyched myself up for another night. The sea was much calmer which was a relief as I really didn’t fancy another night like the previous.

I launched at mid to low tide which I found was the safest time to launch and land. 

As I paddled I came across some rough water and a bit of a rip. I wasn’t that excited especially if it was like the previous night.

 I would like to say it was amazing and there was so much to look at but that would be a lie. It was a steep black beach with the occasional mountain and The glaciers had started to dissappear. 

I had been to Vik before with the two weeks off and knew that it was a good place to land and I could get water and shop if needed. 

It’s a little boring paddle and I knew it would be but I entertain myself with my radio. The music is good and classic pop rock and some modern play. I swear this attracted some wildlife.

The beautiful stacks of Vik appear and there are a few other beach campers and a few brave swimmers. I pull the boat up and have an amazing view from the tent. One of the best so far.

A missed goodnight.

With the eggy over taste fresh in my mind and hopes and wishes for a stable stomach I trundle my way down off the steep sand bank and down to the boat. The convenience of having a provided shelter is such a relief and if my stomach holds out it will be a double whammy.

I leave at low tide or just getting to it which means for safe landing I will at least have to be 10 hours paddling. The low tide makes the steep beach easy to land and convenient. Although dragging the boat up the steep beach is a bit of a chore.

I launch in nice sunlit conditions. The weather report changes again and I’m umming and ahhing at what to do. This is an adventure so I decide to go for it. 

This isn’t the place to make bad decisions as a swim in with the boat could be on the cards but hey I like adventure. 

Easy launching and im off round the rock there is some swell and also a tail wind. I’m being hopeful that I can make some good miles this night. I soon settle down into a good rhythm Friđa playing well although the waves are somewhat swampy and keep bucking me off line. The bag I have on the back deck is catching the wind and creating an annoying twitch but the boat as always takes most of this.

As the night draws on it starts to get a little bumpy and the wind is still present. I’ve decided to carry on and get to it but there is some low cloud and im in a dusky dark that I hadn’t planned for then it starts to rain. I can’t see the map and can make out breakers and river mouths with some horrible white capped waves. I have to keep on my toes, changing direction when needed and staying out of the line of breakers. They start from far out and go all the way to the beach. Lucky enough they are spaced. This night was a big tease and a test.

I’m rushing with adrenaline and composure. My eyes feel a million miles wide while I play hunt the lighthouse and avoid the waves. I paddle out to avoid the breakers and get caught in what feels like a rip and have a struggle to get past. Slightly confusing, annoyed and then startled as a dolphin makes an appearance. Rip? This was new to this Iceland paddle.

Yes the black sand coast is as deceiving as has been told. This is quite an effort and I decide to land short of my desired destination. I had run out of time and low tide was beginning. 

The next light house has a track to it in case I need to get out and I decide to get in. I pick my way across the breakers playing with them as much as they have been taunting me. Paddling fast to get past them an into the beach breakers. I land without any problems and pull up the boat. I go for a walk to stretch and calm. Put up the tent and ate. Sleep was calling.

The eggy spoon.

Before I packed up from the lagoon I tried to have an hour sleep as I was going to paddle through the night. Like I mentioned before the tranquility of this place is unreal an hour turned into 6 hours non stop. Oops. I quickly ate and got into the lagoon. I took a sneaky paddle around some of the icebergs. I now feel like I’ve over spoilt myself with such an amazing site. 

I was slightly worried about the surf but it was easy enough to paddle out the Taran behaving like it always has, solid and true. The way I feel about my boat is a lot like I guess a cowboy must feel about a horse. It becomes your reliable friend. Being able to put faith and certainty in its worth especially if you push distances.

It wasn’t a big push on to the next place of landing. A big rock stands out the largest for the majority of the black sand coast. There is a shelter there and I decided to land. It wasn’t really a long day but rough landings were to be kept to a minimal on. While paddling along I could see objects wasted up I wanted to explore but it was mid tide and dumpy stuff. There were things that looked like dead whales, broken ships and bouyage washed up.

Landing at the rock I was supprised to see a tractor with a trailer full of people then another. They were having a tour. I tried to sleep wrapped up in the space blanket and contemplated paddling on for another stretch. I decided against it but snooze on for a few hours then walked up the sleep sandy bank up the rock. 

What an amazing view. The flat sand half covered in water. I now understood why this was a bad place to get stuck. A long walk to the nearest house. There were stories of horses being sucked into the sand like from some black and white film.

The skuas were attacking me and doing dive bomb runs. This was amusing. I’m. Not really a fan of them but their diving and squalking made me laugh a little.

I found the shelter. This one was fairly empty aside from the beds. There were photos of the people collecting eggs and there was a long stick with a net on the end which I asume was for catching the Puffins. This is an old tradition which I find a little disturbing. 

I had left my spoon in the boat and it was a bit of a jaunt back. Luckly I sound one I  the drawer. I cleaned it as best I could but it tasted of seagull egg even though I ate a curry.

Lagoon peace.

Well leaving Höfn wasn’t as easy as the fisherman had said. More ferry gliding as I wanted to avoid the bumpy water the water was coming in. Woopse it wasn’t going to let me out. I stopped at the shelter the opposite side to the previous one and I chilled with the radio and realised I was going to be a late one. 

I ate and waited for the high tide. Perfect I left at slightly the wrong time but was greeted by a whale about 5 minutes out of the mouth. Never a dull day as in the distance I could see a Humpback breaching. Wow. 

Feeling charged from the sights I hoped I could get into the lagoon I ploughed onwards for the next 55km. I wouldn’t be joking if I said I was feeling tired when I got to the bridge which is the entrance. I had spotted from afar what I thought was the bridge but turned out to be electric cables. Oh well. I kept at it the water was relatively calm and I hoped the lagoon empying wouldn’t be a problem.

I was lucky or skilled which ever way I was relieved to be past the breakers and under the bridge, dodging some smaller chunks of ice. The tranquillity of this place was unbelievable. I paddled to a relatively calm spot through some ice chunks. There were photographers taking photos of the sunrise. I was photographed but i think i must of had my serial killer face on as i clocked the woman checking her photos and her face said it all. I landed away from the footpath found a flat spot and put up the tent. I ate and went to sleep knowing I was in one of the most beautiful places I have ever been so far. The icebergs have black lines from the soot and ash of volcanic activity which you can only find in Iceland. Just wow, the water flowing and the silent movement of the icebergs with the occasional disturbance from breaking ice gave this place a settling feeling I had never experienced before. For me this is one of the highlights. The fear of the black sand south coast quelled by the serenity of this place. 

Lounging around Höfn.

Everything revolves around electric for a phone when not paddling. I’ve been reading off the phone so charging is a bit of a constant and using solar panels wasn’t really an option as I didn’t have the funds. Besides it’s always nice to have a bit of human interaction. Charging usual involves having to spend money. But sometimes one can get lucky. The weighing bridge is always a good one and they have swell reports weather and sometimes a shower and electricity. So I spent a couple of days bumming round reading and mentally preparing myself for the next bit. The black sands, the south coast the long beach I had been preparing for since my departure. 

If i stood from my tent I could count about 5 glaciers. This was what I was excited about. The next stop if I got it right would be full on amazing.

To the start of something.

Höfn was just along the way. The start of the big push.

I launched out through the dumpy bit choosing my time and was off. After the little effort getting in to the landing point I chose a mid bay route and had no problems. The tide here is minimal in speed but it can catch you out a little.

A short paddle to the mouth but I was definitely given some good views of the cliffs and Just amazed by the contrast in some of the colours.

Getting into the estuary would be more of a problem. The swell meeting the water exiting was making for some lumpy water and I tried surfing in but to no avail. This would of been a great place to mess about but solo and full boat I tried to paddle round some of the rocks but of I timed it wrong then maybe a big oops. I still felt a pang of stomach twist from the sick day landing when I knocked the boat a little. 

So I landed and pulled to boat up. There was a safety hut here so I went to it. The bunks were about a foot too short so I was in for a bad neck if I got it wrong and the water that was here had been off since 2012.

I slept and waited for the tide to change. I had checked the weather and I was going to be here a couple of days. The next stretch would be a bit of a pain if gotten wrong so would need good weather for at least 3 days preferably 5.

I paddled back out to the entrance and squeezed by the rocks.i was going to need to ferry glide across as the flow was quite against me. 

Landing on the slip way I pullets the boat up and found a nice place to put the tent and went to sleep.